Thursday, December 23, 2010

THE NATURAL LOOK : BP and WILLIAMSBURG- this is for you

in have been geting more and more requests from chassidish customers in the boro park and Williamsburg communities B"H. in a way they are the most challanging customers because when they want a natural look they don't mean a well blended or soft look. they want a natural look- as in they want their face to be radiant but with no makeup really showing especially on the eyes. it takes alot longer that you'd think to create this kind of look.

doing makeup for the sephardi community where they love color is more fun as an artist but also in many ways easier. you can play around.

On these clients creating the illusion of glowing skin is key. The shape of the eyebrows, the hilights and contours, the lush lashes....you can't rely of color to do the job for you and mistakes wil be more easily noticed.


I have alread shown in my contour blog and my concealer video how to create the base for this look in terms of glowing skin.

Onto the eyes. there are several ways i do this.

1: Powder eye shadow.
I apply a thin layer of a matte primer or shadow magneton the eye to hold the color. then cover the eye in a satin finish nude eye shadow. satin finish is not shimmery but not as flat as a true matte- it does catch the light a bit. i then use a blending brush to add a deeper shade, about 2 shades, into the crease. which color? most people assume brown when creating shadow and this may be true but brown comes in different shades and depending on the eye color you may want to go with  different shades of brown.. a taupe is most universally flattering when in doubt. Brown and hazel eyes look best with a purplish brown, like the color of hot chocolate. Blues should go with a greyish bown, or taupe, green eyes with a golder of coppery brown. in truth any of these colors will work with any eye color but these are the colors to choose to make the eyes really sparkle. add just the barest hint of the color in the crease and blend. the color will be almost invisable appearing like a natral shadow but the eyes will stand out. i add a hint of a shimmering highlight shade under the brow bon and the inner corners of the eye to make the person appear awake and well rested.
i usually use my coastal scents warm palette for this look.

2: Cream eye shadow.

most cream shadows will crease so this is tricky. I use Illuminare cream eye shadows. they come in only skintones, browns and 2 highlighters making it ideal for this kind of look and they don't budge once dry. They do take a bit of practice. they're available on the Illuminare website.




3: foundations:
The fastest way to create this look, is using different color cream foundations. i use my cinima secrets five color palettes and apply a nude shade all over the lid, blend a deepr shade from the same palette into the crease with my finger, add a lighter shade uner the browbone and then set it with a translucent powder like kryolan or makeup forever.

 In some cases i will add a brown gel liner, smudging it in with the shadow before it sets.

Then use a lash curler and sweep on a volumizing mascara.


For cheeks is as usual prefer cream blushes, sometimes using a lipcolor as a blush and BLEND WELL!! to avoide the streaky look. however i will sometimbes use powder blushes. i will dust lightly from the apples up the cheekbones with a brown or bronze blush for dimention and then swirl a peachy pink on the the apples for that pinched fresh look.

for lips i use a neutral nude, pink or peachy color, and i always prefer to use longwear lipsticks for simchas like covergirl outlast or loreal infallible.

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